Last night I used this 8% glycolic resurfacing solution for the first time. This is the first time I’ve ever used glycolic acid on my skin, except for one, one-time use years ago when a dermatologist prescribed 70%(!) glycolic for a tiny blemish. (That was weird. Luckily my skin survived.) As a woman of colour, with kind of sensitive, normal-dry, older skin, I had had second thoughts about even trying the glycolic, and I was extremely cautious. But for the past 5-6 weeks or so, I’ve been carefully using other, less powerful actives, with no problem. So, I washed my face and started with The Ordinary’s Niacinamide 10% with zinc. I let that dry. Then I started layering the glycolic. I just used my hands. For about the first 15 minutes, it did start to tingle and itch a bit. On some spots it even started to feel like tiny needle pricks. But after those first 15 minutes or so, the sensations lessened, then stopped. I let the glycolic dry completely before I put on a mixture of squalane (oil) and Naturium’s plant ceramide moisturiser.
I feel like the borderline intensity of the 8% glycolic may have been the “upper limit” of MY skin’s tolerance for this acid, at least for now. My skin feels fine and looks normal; no tenderness or other signs of irritation. If I had realised before (that 8% glycolic already is pretty strong), probably I would have started with a gentler glycolic formula, maybe 5% or 7%.
Tonight I’m returning to my prescription azelaic acid, maybe layering it with niacinamide 10%. Did I hear that niacinamide is NOT compatible with vitamin C serum?? I use BeautyStat’s Universal C Skin Refiner (20% L-ascorbic acid). I’m about to reapply my sunscreen for the 3rd time today, probably with two more applications between now and 7pm tonight.
Niacinamide is compatible with Vitamin C, there was a recommendation in The Ordinary website not to use their Niacinamide 10% with their ascorbic acid serums, but the interaction they were / are worried about is not realistic unless you actually mix products rather then let them sink in one by one. So you can ignore that precaution.
Here is a good article explaining the a bit of chemistry behind the interaction of ascorbic acid and niacinamide in skincare context: https://www.kindofstephen.com/can-you-use-niacinamide-and-vitamin-c-ascorbic/