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last year

Very oily out of a sudden

Hi everyone,

My skin used to be dry/combination but recently it became very oily. The only thing I have been doing differently is using retinol on a regular basis for a couple of months now, however, I think the oiliness started earlier. Now I have to use more salicylic acid and even bezoyl peroxide as my pores get clogged quickly. Someone told me it could be due to a broken skin barrier or too many actives and so my skin is trying to compensate for that. I use Vitamin C and azelaic acid in the morning, retinol and salicylic acid (alternating) in the evening. What are your thoughts?

Thank you.

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As soon as I read that I thought a broken skin barrier, a sudden change to very oily always has a cause and overuse of actives is often one of them. A common thing that people do is they use more actives to compensate for the extra oil, but instead of helping the problem you're actually going to be creating more damage. Retinol, salicylic acid, azelaic acid, vitamin c and benzoyl peroxide is a huge amount of actives to be using. It's one thing to very slowly work up to using multiple actives (this includes alternating them) but going this quickly is a recipe for trouble. I'm not sure the strength of the products or how long you had been using the other actives, but going slow low and slow is the way - think of skincare as a marathon and not a sprint.
What I think you need is to step away from all actives (all of them) and focus on barrier repair, gentle cleansing, calming ingredients and at least a cream that is rich in ceramides

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Thank you for your reply. I'll try to focus on the barrier repair indeed. Still feels weird because I've been using all the other actives for years now (azelaic acid, vitamin C and salicylic acid). So yes, the problem might be the retinol or how it interacts with the other actives. Benzoyl peroxide is something I'm incorporating only now because I started having breakouts due to this oiliness.

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It is possible that too many actives can increase sebum production - but only if the actives lead to inflammation (like in an irritant reaction). If you didn't notice any signs of irritation from the actives, the new oiliness could be due to a change in hormones - for example, because of stress. Since your goal is to help your skin rather than find out the exact cause, a combination strategy is a good choice: see if dialing down your skincare actives + some extra care of yourself (sleep, nutrition, physical activity, and things that make you happy).

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Thank you!

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No, I have no inflammation. And I just realized it can be indeed due to a change in hormones because last spring I got off birth control and since then the oiliness has been gradually increasing...

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I agree with the other comments, but I suggest you to suspend temporarily only salicylic and vit C.

Put azelaic on PM routine instead of salicylic and add a barrier protection day and night (before actives in the night).

Then, you didn’t write the products you are using, and there might be some non active ingredient that doesn’t work properly for you. Can you write your full routines please? I will be glad to take a look.

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