How to choose your moisturizer?
Figuring out the right moisturizer for your skin can be a challenge. You want something that is going to hydrate, protect and nourish, but there are so many products on the market... How do you begin to choose? We've created a simple, fact-based guide to help. Spoiler: There are quite a few of marketing fairy-tales to be uncovered.
Before we share the "how to" tips, here is an interesting fact: the term "moisturizer" was developed by advertisers, it doesn’t have a proper medical/ dermatological definition. Good moisturizers don’t deliver water into the skin (while they can do so indirectly), they get the job done by supporting the skin’s barrier function. While water content in the skin plays a big role, there is so much more to it, including the composition of skin lipids, skin's pH (so called acid mantle), shape and size of corneocytes (non-living skin cells in the top layer of the skin). Great products address a few of these factors and strengthen the skin - rather than “quench the skin’s thirst” (while we’ve got to agree, this advertisement language is brilliant).
Now, what to look for in a good moisturizer?
Make sure it contains humectants; humectants love binding to water molecules, essentially grabbing them and offering to stay with your skin for a while. They are better at attracting water molecules than they are at keeping them with the skin over time. You can think of them as a very attractive date who, unfortunately, is not great at sustaining an interesting conversation. If you were water, you'd take the date but might feel like leaving after a while😉. Good humectants include glycerin, hyaluronic acid, sodium PCA, beta-glucans and other sugars. Moreover, peptides, marine extracts, and many plant extracts are also excellent humectants. In fact, in many cases, the effect of these ingredients is primarily in hydration rather than other more fancy properties, like anti-aging, which they are often advertised for.
Make sure it contains emollients and occlusives; in essence, these act as lubricants, softening the edges of the non-living cells on the surface of the skin, making it feel smoother and more flexible (less tight). Occlusives, furthermore, help form a film on the surface of the skin, preventing water molecules from evaporating too quickly. Different types of oils (plant oils, squalane, mineral oil), waxes, butters (shea butter, cocoa butter) and silicones are all effective emollients and occlusives. Collagen added to topical skincare products also works as an occlusive; it cannot penetrate the skin to become part of its own collagen matrix. Keep in mind that emollients and occlusives, on their own, are not attractive to water; it won't take a date with them; they can only help make the "relationship with a humectant" that is already happening last longer. This is why oils, on their own, no matter how organic and nice they may be, are not sufficient moisturizers for most people.
Look for special skin barrier helpers, such as niacinamide, ceramides, low concentrations of lactobionic acid or lactic acid, and colloidal oatmeal extract. Each of these supports the skin barrier function in its own way, going beyond simply attracting and retaining water. When combined with the immediate dryness relief provided by the other two groups, they help skin to gather its own defences and stay resilient, hydrated, and strong in the long term.
Finally, avoid irritants such as fragrances and essential oils in moisturizers; even without causing an acute reaction, they can lead to a low-intensity inflammation in the skin, disrupting its barrier function. With the same rationale, to help your moisturizer work even better, avoid long showers and hot water; unfortunately, this universally leads to dryness and weaker skin barrier.
Note: if you are worried about a moisturizer clogging your pores, this resource will help you understand comedogenicity ratings.