Optimum

Optimum Superdrug Optimum Collagen Eye Cream

Name: Optimum - Superdrug Optimum Collagen Eye Cream
Brand: Optimum

Efficacy87/100IrritancyMedium

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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38, Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 + 17 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“Moisturising plant collagen combined with 2 powerful peptides to help smooth the skin, de-puff the eyes area and reduce the appearance of fine lines.”

Source: Supderdrug

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: betaine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, dimethiconol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl tetrapeptide-5, palmitoyl tripeptide-38

Collagen amino acidsKey activeEffect: HighHelp attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function~0.25–0.5%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.6–5.6%

Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.35–0.65%

DimethiconolKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time~0.55–0.85%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.2%

Beta-sitosterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA phytosterol that can support skin's barrier function and help the skin stay hydrated~0.25–0.5%

BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~4–4.8%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~2.4–2.9%

Acetyl tetrapeptide-5Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%

Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~1.6–2%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.65%

SqualeneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~0.25–0.45%

Lecithin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~1–1.2%

Calcium gluconate· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and helps to improve appearance of the product~0.1–0.2%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~1.2–1.5%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.55–0.85%

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.2–0.4%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%

Anti-aging

Acetyl tetrapeptide-5, Palmitoyl tripeptide-38 + 2 more

Moderate evidence

What the product description says

“Moisturising plant collagen combined with 2 powerful peptides to help smooth the skin, de-puff the eyes area and reduce the appearance of fine lines.”

Source: Supderdrug

This product contains acetyl tetrapeptide-5, palmitoyl tripeptide-38. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Acetyl tetrapeptide-5Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.2%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · Ginkgo biloba leaf extract, Squalene + 3 more

Moderate evidence

This product contains antioxidants (ginkgo biloba leaf extract, squalene) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Ginkgo biloba leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritating~0.3–0.5%

SqualeneKey activeEffect: MediumAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~0.25–0.45%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%

GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.2–0.4%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.45–0.65%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

14 flagged ingredients

Medium risk

We flagged 14 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Ginkgo biloba leaf extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.5%est.

Sodium acrylates copolymerUsed to create a thicker product consistencyMedium~1.8–2.2%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~1.2–1.5%est.

Triethyl citrateUsed as a fragrance. Rarely causes irritationMedium~0.65–1%est.

Benzoic acidA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.45–0.65%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.35–0.65%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrinUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

GluconolactoneA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.35–0.65%est.

SqualeneAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast2/5~0.25–0.45%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glycerin~4.6–5.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Betaine~4–4.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine

Glycereth-26~3–3.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps create a thicker product consistency

More about Glycereth-26

Dimethicone~2.4–2.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Sodium acrylates copolymer~1.8–2.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Sodium acrylates copolymer

Saccharide isomerate~1.6–2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate

Synthetic fluorphlogopite~1.5–1.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A mineral that is used as an optical filter (makes the skin looks nicer through light reflection) and to improve the texture of cosmetic products

More about Synthetic fluorphlogopite

Caprylyl glycol~1.2–1.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Lecithin~1–1.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Triethyl citrate~0.65–1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used as a fragrance. Rarely causes irritation

More about Triethyl citrate

Butylene glycol~0.55–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Dimethiconol~0.55–0.85%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time

More about Dimethiconol

Benzoic acid~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Benzoic acid

Sodium hyaluronate~0.45–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Tocopheryl acetate~0.45–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Sodium hydroxide~0.4–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Glycine soja oil~0.35–0.65%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil

Disodium edta~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Ginkgo biloba leaf extract~0.3–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin. It can be irritating

More about Ginkgo biloba leaf extract

Collagen amino acids~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function

More about Collagen amino acids

Tocopherol~0.25–0.5%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate

Tin oxide~0.35–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A colorant that can add a pearl-like appearance to the formulation

More about Tin oxide

Beta-sitosterol~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A phytosterol that can support skin's barrier function and help the skin stay hydrated

More about Beta-sitosterol

Gluconolactone~0.2–0.4%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemishAnti-oxidation

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

More about Gluconolactone

Citric acid~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Sodium citrate~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate

Squalene~0.25–0.45%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast

More about Squalene

Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Acetyl tetrapeptide-5~0.15–0.25%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl tetrapeptide-5

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38~0.1–0.2%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-38

Calcium gluconate~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and helps to improve appearance of the product

More about Calcium gluconate

Titanium dioxide~0.1–0.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide

Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Betaine, Glycereth-26, Dimethicone, Sodium acrylates copolymer, Saccharide isomerate, Synthetic fluorphlogopite, Caprylyl glycol, Lecithin, Triethyl citrate, Butylene glycol, Dimethiconol, Benzoic acid, Sodium hyaluronate, Tocopheryl acetate, Sodium hydroxide, Glycine soja oil, Disodium edta, Ginkgo biloba leaf extract, Collagen amino acids, Tocopherol, Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Tin oxide, Beta-sitosterol, Gluconolactone, Citric acid, Sodium citrate, Squalene, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Acetyl tetrapeptide-5, Palmitoyl tripeptide-38, Calcium gluconate, Titanium dioxide

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Product summary

"Optimum - Superdrug Optimum Collagen Eye Cream" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Optimum - Superdrug Optimum Collagen Eye Cream ticks this box. Acetyl tetrapeptide-5, betaine, glycerin, saccharide isomerate and sodium hyaluronate in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Beta-sitosterol, glycine soja oil, dimethicone, dimethiconol and squalene in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

This moistruizer also contains peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-38 0.10% - 0.20% and acetyl tetrapeptide-5 0.15% - 0.25%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains actives that can be irritating. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.