VT Cosmetics

VT Cosmetics Cica Reti-A Cream 0.05%

Name: VT Cosmetics - Cica Reti-A Cream 0.05%
Brand: VT Cosmetics

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

See all ingredients In 6 routines

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Works for

5 of 5 advertised claims delivered

Evens skin tone

5 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol.

In addition, this product contains bakuchiol, niacinamide. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: madecassoside.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~0.2–0.4%

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.05%

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.1–1.4%

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.3%

MadecassosideEffect: LowAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.2–0.35%

Anti-aging

8 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“This all-in-one cream is enriched with retinol, retinal and bakuchiol to firm up skin and minimize visible pores and wrinkles.”

Source: Yesstyle

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol, adenosine, bakuchiol, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: asiaticoside, madecassoside.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.4%

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.1–0.25%

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.2–0.35%

Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.5%

Exfoliation

2 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.3%

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateKey activeEffect: MediumA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.05%

Moisturizing

22 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hydrolyzed collagen.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, hydrolyzed collagen.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: madecassoside, niacinamide

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.4–2.9%

Asiatic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.15–0.25%

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.1–0.25%

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.1–1.4%

Hydrolyzed collagenKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%

Madecassic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.15–0.3%

MadecassosideHeroEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.2–0.35%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%

Synthetic beeswaxKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.75%

TriethylhexanoinKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.75%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.6–5.6%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.4%

Polyglyceryl-6 stearateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.6–2%

Propolis extractKey activeEffect: MediumA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating~0.15–0.3%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.75–1.1%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~3.9–4.8%

Phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency~0.45–0.65%

Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product consistency while softening the upper layer of the skin~3.1–3.8%

Viola tricolor extract· EmollientEffect: LowA plant extract that might have an anti-inflammatory effect in skin~0.2–0.4%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.5–0.75%

Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.5%

CyclohexasiloxaneEffect: Low, below effective doseA silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels~0.95–1.2%

Anti-blemish

5 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: hydroxypinacolone retinoate, niacinamide, retinol. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

In addition, this product contains bakuchiol. It can help in reducing blemishes, even though it is less effective.

Centella asiatica extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.5%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 10 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, bakuchiol, madecassoside, retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.2–0.35%

AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.4%

Propolis extractEffect: LowA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating~0.15–0.3%

Viola tricolor extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have an anti-inflammatory effect in skin~0.2–0.4%

Centaurea cyanus flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have antibacterial effect and help neutralize free radicals~0.2–0.4%

Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can be irritating. It might contain a compound anthocyanin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.2–0.35%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

5 strong irritants: Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract + 3 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 23 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.High~0.05%est.

Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extractA plant extract that can be irritating. It might contain a compound anthocyanin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Lavandula angustifolia flower extractEssential oil that can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Centaurea cyanus flower extractA plant extract that might have antibacterial effect and help neutralize free radicalsHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Propolis extractA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.1%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~2.4–2.9%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.7–1%est.

TriethylhexanoinHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.5–0.75%est.

Sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.65%est.

Polyglyceryl-6 behenateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.3–0.5%est.

Viola tricolor extractA plant extract that might have an anti-inflammatory effect in skinMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

BakuchiolA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritationMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

BhtA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

MadecassosideAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Madecassic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.1–0.25%est.

Asiatic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

BhaHelps preserve the product formulationMedium~0.1–0.15%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.05–0.1%est.

Comedogenic

1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

1 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.75–1.1%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glycerin~4.6–5.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Butylene glycol~3.9–4.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate~3.1–3.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product consistency while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~2.4–2.9%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Propanediol~1.9–2.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Polyglyceryl-6 stearate~1.6–2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-6 stearate

1,2-hexanediol~0.7–1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Niacinamide~1.1–1.4%

Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAntibacterialReduces rednessAnti-inflammatory

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Cyclohexasiloxane~0.95–1.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane

Cetearyl alcohol~0.75–1.1%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Triethylhexanoin~0.5–0.75%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Triethylhexanoin

Synthetic beeswax~0.5–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Synthetic beeswax

Glyceryl stearate~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency

More about Phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate

Dimethyl isosorbide~0.4–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin

More about Dimethyl isosorbide

Sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate~0.35–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate

Polyglyceryl-6 behenate~0.3–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-6 behenate

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydroxypinacolone retinoate~0.05%

Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-blemishAnti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliation

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

More about Hydroxypinacolone retinoate

Centella asiatica extract~0.3–0.5%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract

Adenosine~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine

Sodium hyaluronate~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can be irritating. It might contain a compound anthocyanin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract

Viola tricolor extract~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might have an anti-inflammatory effect in skin

More about Viola tricolor extract

Lavandula angustifolia flower extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Essential oil that can be irritating

More about Lavandula angustifolia flower extract

Centaurea cyanus flower extract~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might have antibacterial effect and help neutralize free radicals

More about Centaurea cyanus flower extract

Bakuchiol~0.2–0.4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-agingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation

More about Bakuchiol

Polysorbate 20~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20

Retinol~0.15–0.3%

Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-blemishMattifyingExfoliationAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol

Hydrolyzed collagen~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed collagen

Bht~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Bht

Madecassoside~0.2–0.35%

Hero · MoisturizingIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations

More about Madecassoside

Madecassic acid~0.15–0.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Madecassic acid

Asiaticoside~0.1–0.25%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationReduces irritationAnti-aging

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside

Asiatic acid~0.15–0.25%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiatic acid

Propolis extract~0.15–0.3%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

A complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating

More about Propolis extract

Bha~0.1–0.15%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps preserve the product formulation

More about Bha

Disodium edta~0.05–0.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Parfum~0.05–0.1%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-6 stearate, 1,2-hexanediol, Niacinamide, Cyclohexasiloxane, Cetearyl alcohol, Triethylhexanoin, Synthetic beeswax, Glyceryl stearate, Phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate, Dimethyl isosorbide, Sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, Polyglyceryl-6 behenate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Centella asiatica extract, Adenosine, Sodium hyaluronate, Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract, Viola tricolor extract, Lavandula angustifolia flower extract, Centaurea cyanus flower extract, Bakuchiol, Polysorbate 20, Retinol, Hydrolyzed collagen, Bht, Madecassoside, Madecassic acid, Asiaticoside, Asiatic acid, Propolis extract, Bha, Disodium edta, Parfum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	VT CosmeticsCica Reti-A Cream 0.05%YOUR PRODUCT	SkinfoodBlack Cherry Retinol Daily Cream	SCINICCicanoid Retinal Cream	SUNGBOON EDITORCentell Lacto Skin Barrier Relaxing Cream
Match	—	76%	74%	70%
Price	$22.80	$17.58−$5.22	$22.30−$0.50	$24.00+$1.20
Shared key ingredients	—	9 of 16	9 of 16	11 of 16
Key difference	—	Glutathione	Retinal	Ceramide Np
Irritancy	High	High	High	High
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"VT Cosmetics - Cica Reti-A Cream 0.05%" is effective for: Evens skin tone, Anti-aging, Exfoliation, Moisturizing and Anti-blemish

Ingredient callouts

Bakuchiol in this moisturizer (the concentration is about 0.20% - 0.40%). Helps fight photodamage (wrinkles, elasticity loss and pigmentation) and can reduce clogged pores and blemishes. Bakuchiol is a compound extracted from a plant Babchi. It acts similar to retinoids, but with less irritation risk.
This moisturizer contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 0.15% - 0.30% and hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.05% - 0.05%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of Retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternate days or when your skin feels dry.
Adenosine 0.20% - 0.40%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - asiatic acid 0.15% - 0.25%, asiaticoside 0.10% - 0.25%, madecassic acid 0.15% - 0.30% and madecassoside 0.20% - 0.35% The Centella Asiatica Actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.