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Institut Esthederm Esthe-White System Brightening Youth Anti-Dark Spots Serum
Institut Esthederm

Institut Esthederm Esthe-White System Brightening Youth Anti-Dark Spots Serum

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium
See all ingredients

Works for

Anti-aging
Acetyl glucosamine, Ascorbyl glucoside + 4 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Esthe-White System Brightening Youth Anti-Dark Spots Serum”
From product name

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains acetyl glucosamine.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: ascorbyl glucoside, carnosine, creatine.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Acetyl glucosamineKey activeEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin~1.4–1.8%
Ascorbyl glucosideKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~1.3–1.5%
CarnosineKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.3–0.55%
CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.25–0.5%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.15–0.25%
Evens skin tone
Acetyl glucosamine, Ascorbyl glucoside + 1 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Esthe-White System Brightening Youth Anti-Dark Spots Serum”
From product name

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: acetyl glucosamine

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: ascorbyl glucoside, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Acetyl glucosamineKey activeEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin~1.4–1.8%
Ascorbyl glucosideKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~1.3–1.5%
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.15–0.3%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Ascorbyl glucoside, Carnosine + 6 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (carnosine, superoxide dismutase) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - ascorbyl glucoside, creatine also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Ascorbyl glucosideKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~1.3–1.5%
CarnosineKey activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.3–0.55%
CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.25–0.5%
Superoxide dismutaseKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants~0.1–0.2%
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.15–0.3%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.95–1.15%
Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.15–0.25%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Moisturizing
Side benefit · Acetyl glucosamine, Paraffinum liquidum + 13 more
Works well

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: carnosine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: peg-10 dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl glucosamine, paraffinum liquidum

Acetyl glucosamineHero· HumectantEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin~1.4–1.8%
Paraffinum liquidumHero· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighMineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function~0.6–0.85%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~7.2–8.8%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4–4.9%
Peg-10 dimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that works to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce its water loss~1.8–2.2%
CarnosineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.3–0.55%
Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
Superoxide dismutaseKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants~0.1–0.2%
Cyclohexasiloxane· EmollientEffect: LowA silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels~3.2–4%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~2.4–2.9%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.5–0.8%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.4–0.6%
Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~0.15–0.3%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Laminaria digitata extractUnder-dosedSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.15–0.25%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Parfum
Medium risk
We flagged 10 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Ascorbyl glucosideA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsMedium~1.3–1.5%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.95–1.15%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.5–0.8%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.35–0.6%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Laminaria digitata extractSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment3/5~0.15–0.25%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Cyclopentasiloxane~7.2–8.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Glycerin~4–4.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Cyclohexasiloxane~3.2–4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane
Butylene glycol~2.4–2.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer~2–2.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Helps thicken the product consistency

More about Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer
Peg-10 dimethicone~1.8–2.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that works to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce its water loss

More about Peg-10 dimethicone
Acetyl glucosamine~1.4–1.8%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-agingExfoliation

An effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin

More about Acetyl glucosamine
Ascorbyl glucoside~1.3–1.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about Ascorbyl glucoside
Tocopheryl acetate~0.95–1.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Disteardimonium hectorite~0.65–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A type of clay that is used to thicken the product consistency

More about Disteardimonium hectorite
Paraffinum liquidum~0.6–0.85%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Mineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function

More about Paraffinum liquidum
Pentylene glycol~0.5–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
C30-45 alkyl cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to create a nice silky product texture

More about C30-45 alkyl cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer
1,2-hexanediol~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Caprylyl glycol~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Sodium hydroxide~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Carnosine~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage

More about Carnosine
Creatine~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness

More about Creatine
Disodium edta~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Potassium phosphate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps regulate the pH of the formulation

More about Potassium phosphate
Parfum~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Silica~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Propylene glycol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Citric acid~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Saccharide isomerate~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate
Disodium phosphate~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust the product pH and stabilize the formulation

More about Disodium phosphate
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces rednessEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Disodium adenosine triphosphate~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Disodium adenosine triphosphate
Laminaria digitata extract~0.15–0.25%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment

More about Laminaria digitata extract
Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Superoxide dismutase~0.1–0.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants

More about Superoxide dismutase
Tromethamine~0.05–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine
Ingredient list view

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Butylene glycol, Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, Peg-10 dimethicone, Acetyl glucosamine, Ascorbyl glucoside, Tocopheryl acetate, Disteardimonium hectorite, Paraffinum liquidum, Pentylene glycol, C30-45 alkyl cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer, 1,2-hexanediol, Caprylyl glycol, Sodium hydroxide, Carnosine, Creatine, Disodium edta, Potassium phosphate, Parfum, Silica, Propylene glycol, Citric acid, Saccharide isomerate, Disodium phosphate, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Tocopherol, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Laminaria digitata extract, Phenoxyethanol, Superoxide dismutase, Tromethamine

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🇬🇧 Amazon UK (UK)Price as of 11/8 06:49 GMT
≈ $96.41
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Institut EsthedermEsthe-White System Brightening Youth Anti-Dark Spots SerumYOUR PRODUCTPaula's choice10% Niacinamide BoosterCliniqueSmart Wrinkle Correcting Serum All Skin TypesSkin ActivesCollagen Serum
Match—49%46%46%
Price—$49.47$80.00$8.88
Shared key ingredients—4 of 124 of 123 of 12
Key difference—NiacinamideHydroxypinacolone RetinoateNiacinamide
Irritancy Medium Low Medium Low
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"Institut Esthederm - Esthe-White System Brightening Youth Anti-Dark Spots Serum" is effective for: Anti-aging, Evens skin tone and Moisturizing

Ingredient callouts

  • Humectants (saccharide isomerate 0.20% - 0.35%, carnosine 0.30% - 0.55%, acetyl glucosamine 1.40% - 1.80% and glycerin 4.00% - 4.90%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Price

The product retails from 57.00£ up to 74.62£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 27 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    The effect of N-acetyl-glucosamine on stratum corneum desquamation and water content in human skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Glucosamine: an ingredient with skin and other benefitsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Genomic expression changes induced by topical N-acetyl glucosamine in skin equivalent cultures in vitroonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    Incorporation of D-(^H)glucosamine into normal and psoriatic epidermal glycoconjugatesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  6. 6
    Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation by topical N-acetyl glucosamineonlinelibrary.wiley.com
Institut Esthederm Esthe-White System Brightening Youth Anti-Dark Spots Serum
Institut EsthedermEsthe-White System Brightening Youth Anti-Dark Spots Serum
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Find on Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.