PRODUCT REVIEW
SUNDAY RILEY A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum
Buy from Amazon US $122.00
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Price as of 4/12/2024 2:14 GMT.
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Product summary
What can the product work for?
Anti-blemish
What does the product description say?
5% blue-green algae (a natural retinol alternative) reduces wrinkles, relieves redness and breakouts, and fades dark spots without the drawbacks of traditional retinol.
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.55% -
0.85%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinol
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
In addition to reducing signs of ageing like fine lines and wrinkles, A+ features encapsulated CoQ10 to help improve the appearance of ageing or damaged skin, while Hawaiian white honey, bisabolol, cactus extract and ginger balance and soothe the skin for the appearance of a calmer, more even-toned complexion.
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.55% -
0.85%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinol
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
ubiquinone
0.3% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
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Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
In addition to reducing signs of ageing like fine lines and wrinkles, A+ features encapsulated CoQ10 to help improve the appearance of ageing or damaged skin, while Hawaiian white honey, bisabolol, cactus extract and ginger balance and soothe the skin for the appearance of a calmer, more even-toned complexion.
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.55% -
0.85%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinol
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Plus, a balancing botanical boost.
cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide
0.3% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
dimethicone
2.6% -
3.2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
glycerin
2.2% -
2.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
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Exfoliation
retinol
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.55% -
0.85%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Anti-oxidation
ubiquinone
0.3% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
retinol
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
tocopherol
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Evens skin tone | |
| Anti-blemish | |
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
93/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.55% -
0.85%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinol
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-oxidation,
Exfoliation,
Anti-aging,
Mattifying,
Anti-blemish
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
butyrospermum parkii butter
0.4% -
0.6%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
algae extract
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
User reviews (0)
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
retinol
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-oxidation,
Exfoliation,
Anti-aging,
Mattifying,
Anti-blemish
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.55% -
0.85%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Show more
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.55% -
0.85%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinol
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-oxidation,
Exfoliation,
Anti-aging,
Mattifying,
Anti-blemish
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
butyrospermum parkii butter
0.4% -
0.6%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
algae extract
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
All ingredients
dimethyl isosorbide
6.4% -
7.8%
Irritation risk:
Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin
propanediol
4.4% -
5.3%
Irritation risk:
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
Show more
Ingredient list view
Water, Dimethyl isosorbide, Propanediol, Triheptanoin, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Pentylene glycol, Cetyl peg/ppg-10/1 dimethicone, Disiloxane, Hexyldecanol, Diheptyl succinate, Propylene carbonate, Phenyl trimethicone, Ppg-24-glycereth-24, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Sodium acrylates copolymer, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Honey extract, Opuntia ficus-indica fruit extract, Bisabolol, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Retinol, Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, Ubiquinone, Zingiber officinale extract, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Lecithin, 1,2-hexanediol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, Caprylyl glycol, Phospholipids, Polyglyceryl-10 stearate, Sorbitol, Cetylhydroxyproline palmitamide, Polysilicone-11, Benzoic acid, Dehydroacetic acid, Capryloyl glycerin/sebacic acid copolymer, Sodium phytate, Phenoxyethanol, Glyceryl polyacrylate, Alcohol, Polysorbate 20, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract, Brassica campestris sterols, Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid, Stearic acid, Pvp, Sodium benzoate, Potassium phosphate, Benzyl alcohol, Decyl glucoside, Algae extract, Hexylene glycol, Tocopherol, Potassium sorbate
Sources
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Acrylates Copolymer and 33 Related Cosmetic Ingredients
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egypt
- Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skin
- Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countries
- α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammation
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)
- A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmetics
- The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediols
- Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters as Used in Cosmetics
- 4 Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Sodium Dehydroacetate and Dehydroacetic Acid
- Ecofriendly surfactant is allergen of the year