PRODUCT REVIEW
Make P:rem Poncirus Trifoliata C Dark Spot Serum
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What can the product work for?
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Serum contains Vitamin C derivative and 66% poncirus trifoliate (hardy orange) extract to brighten complexion while reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and dark spots in four weeks.
adenosine
0.15% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
niacinamide
2.4% -
3.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
0.6% -
1.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
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Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Poncirus Trifoliata C Dark Spot Serum
niacinamide
2.4% -
3.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
tranexamic acid
0.4% -
0.95%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An amino acid that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone. It can also help in skin barrier recovery. It is used to treat melasma, especially with injections and when taken orally
arbutin
0.15% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Beta-arbutin. Can help to reduce hyperpigmentation and has an anti-oxidant effect when used in high enough concentration. Is less effective compared to alpha-arbutin
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Anti-blemish
niacinamide
2.4% -
3.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
melia azadirachta leaf extract
0.2% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating
Moisturizing
panthenol
0.85% -
1.25%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
saccharum officinarum extract
0.35% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
sodium pca
0.15% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer
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Anti-oxidation
arbutin
0.15% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Beta-arbutin. Can help to reduce hyperpigmentation and has an anti-oxidant effect when used in high enough concentration. Is less effective compared to alpha-arbutin
ocimum sanctum leaf extract
0.2% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A plant extract that is rich in a fragrance compound eugenol that is a frequent allergen and can be irritating. It might also contain anti-oxidants to help neutralize free radicals
adenosine
0.15% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 4
Potential irritants
melia azadirachta leaf extract
0.2% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Antibacterial,
Anti-blemish
A plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating
curcuma longa root extract
0.15% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-inflammatory
A plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritant
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Comodogenic ingredients
chondrus crispus extract
0.35% -
0.85%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency
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User reviews (0)
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LOW
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LOW
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LOW
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LOW
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MEDIUM
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LOW
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LOW
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
niacinamide
2.4% -
3.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Moisturizing,
Reduces irritation,
Antibacterial,
Reduces redness,
Anti-inflammatory
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
0.6% -
1.35%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Moisturizing
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
Show more
Potential irritants
melia azadirachta leaf extract
0.2% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Antibacterial,
Anti-blemish
A plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating
curcuma longa root extract
0.15% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-inflammatory
A plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritant
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
chondrus crispus extract
0.35% -
0.85%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency
Show more
All ingredients
propanediol
4.9% -
7.3%
Irritation risk:
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
glycerin
4.3% -
6.4%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
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Ingredient list view
Poncirus trifoliata fruit extract, Propanediol, Glycerin, Neopentyl glycol dicaprate, Niacinamide, Water, Betaine, Pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, Panthenol, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract, Tranexamic acid, Tocopherol, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Macadamia integrifolia seed oil, Chondrus crispus extract, Saccharum officinarum extract, Melia azadirachta flower extract, Melia azadirachta leaf extract, Curcuma longa root extract, Ocimum sanctum leaf extract, Theobroma cacao seed extract, Corallina officinalis extract, Tromethamine, Sodium pca, Arbutin, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium phytate, Dextrin, Behenyl alcohol, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Carbomer
Sources
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediols
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Assessment of penetration of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate into biological membranes by molecular dynamics
- Stability evaluation of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in isolation and incorporated in cosmetic formulations using thermal analysis
- A new lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), prevents UV-induced skin pigmentation through its anti-oxidative properties
- New lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), suppresses senile lentigo through controlling of melanocytes-keratinocytes interaction
- The chemotherapeutic potential of Terminalia ferdinandiana: Phytochemistry and bioactivity
- Effect of tranexamic acid on melasma: a clinical trial with histological evaluation
- Tranexamic acid accelerates skin barrier recovery and upregulates occludin in damaged skin
- The amelioration effect of tranexamic acid in wrinkles induced by skin dryness
- Efficacy and possible mechanisms of topical tranexamic acid in melasma
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Fatty acids profile of oil from nine varieties of Macadamia nut
- Melia azedarach
- Preliminary and Pharmacological Profile of Melia azedarach L.: An Overview
- Vaughn, A. R., Branum, A., & Sivamani, R. K. (2016). Effects of Turmeric (Curcuma longa) on Skin Health: A Systematic Review of the Clinical Evidence. Phytotherapy Research, 30(8), 1243–1264. doi:10.1002/ptr.5640
- Safety Assessment of Tromethamine as Used in Cosmetics
- Arbutin - Commentaty
- TOPICAL TREATMENT OF MELASMA