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Product summary

"Dermalogica - Overnight Retinol Repair with Buffer Cream" has a good moisturizing formula. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (anhydroxylitol, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, glycerin, sodium pca and xylitylglucoside) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide 3, cetyl dimethicone, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone and ethylhexyl hydroxystearate) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • this moisturizer contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 1.40% - 1.70% and retinol 28.00% - 34.00%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of Retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternate days or when your skin feels dry.
  • Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide 3 0.75% - 1.10%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
  • We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-5 0.50% - 0.80%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
  • Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate in this product (1.20% - 1.40%) can also further help improve the skin barrier. It might be able to calm down inflammation and reduce sensitivity. Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is an active compound from the licorice root.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: stearic acid, stearic acid and sodium ascorbyl phosphate

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Dermalogica" is cruelty free, but its parent company is not.

Price

The product retails for 157.11A$ in Australia and for 97.40£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.