PRODUCT REVIEW
Dermalogica Active Clearing Oil Free Matte SPF30
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Product summary
What can the product work for?
Sun protection
Irritation risk:
UVA I protection: UVA II protection: UVB protection: Photo stable: Ingredient type Organic
Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.
homosalate
8%
Irritation risk:
UVA I protection: UVA II protection: UVB protection: Photo stable: Ingredient type Organic
A weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulation
Irritation risk:
UVA I protection: UVA II protection: UVB protection: Photo stable: Ingredient type Organic
Same as oxybenzone. Protects in the UVB and short UVA range. In small concentrations, used to stabilize product formulation. Can be irritating. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can penetrate the skin and get absorbed into bloodstream faster than other popular filters available in the US. The study that produced this finding did not address any potential health effects of the absorption
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Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Sheer formula provides defense against skin-aging UV light.
camellia sinensis leaf extract
0.65% -
0.95%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation
niacinamide
0.45% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
oleanolic acid
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Might be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin
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Evens skin tone
camellia sinensis leaf extract
0.65% -
0.95%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation
niacinamide
0.45% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
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Moisturizing
panthenol
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
cetyl alcohol
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
carthamus tinctorius oleosomes
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
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Anti-oxidation
camellia sinensis leaf extract
0.65% -
0.95%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation
aesculus hippocastanum seed extract
0.3% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Plant extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritating
enantia chlorantha bark extract
0.8% -
1.15%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A bark extract that might help clam down inflammation and neutralize free radicals , but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Sun protection | |
| Anti-aging |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Potential irritants
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Sun protection
Same as oxybenzone. Protects in the UVB and short UVA range. In small concentrations, used to stabilize product formulation. Can be irritating. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can penetrate the skin and get absorbed into bloodstream faster than other popular filters available in the US. The study that produced this finding did not address any potential health effects of the absorption
enantia chlorantha bark extract
0.8% -
1.15%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-inflammatory
A bark extract that might help clam down inflammation and neutralize free radicals , but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
glyceryl stearate se
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing,
Moisturizing
Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient
User reviews (0)
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| WIMJ similarity score |
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| SPF | SPF 30 | SPF 50 | SPF 50 | SPF 35 | SPF 70 | SPF 30 | SPF 50 | SPF 50 | SPF 50 | SPF 50 | SPF 50 | SPF 50 |
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
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MEDIUM
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LOW
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
niacinamide
0.45% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Reduces irritation,
Anti-inflammatory,
Antibacterial,
Reduces redness
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
zinc gluconate
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Exfoliation,
Anti-inflammatory,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-oxidation
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
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Potential irritants
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Sun protection
Same as oxybenzone. Protects in the UVB and short UVA range. In small concentrations, used to stabilize product formulation. Can be irritating. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can penetrate the skin and get absorbed into bloodstream faster than other popular filters available in the US. The study that produced this finding did not address any potential health effects of the absorption
enantia chlorantha bark extract
0.8% -
1.15%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-inflammatory
A bark extract that might help clam down inflammation and neutralize free radicals , but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
glyceryl stearate se
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing,
Moisturizing
Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient
All ingredients
homosalate
8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Sun protection
A weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulation
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Sun protection
Same as oxybenzone. Protects in the UVB and short UVA range. In small concentrations, used to stabilize product formulation. Can be irritating. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can penetrate the skin and get absorbed into bloodstream faster than other popular filters available in the US. The study that produced this finding did not address any potential health effects of the absorption
Show more
Ingredient list view
Water, Homosalate, Benzophenone-3, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ppg-3 benzyl ether ethylhexanoate, Butylene glycol, Nylon-12, Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, Arachidyl alcohol, Stearic acid, Polysorbate 80, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Enantia chlorantha bark extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Oleanolic acid, Niacinamide, Yeast extract, Aesculus hippocastanum seed extract, Ammonium glycyrrhizate, Panthenol, Zinc gluconate, Caffeine, Biotin, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Sodium dna, Tocopherol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Carbomer, Carthamus tinctorius oleosomes, Citrus grandis peel oil, Limonene, Tocopheryl acetate, Behenyl alcohol, Arachidyl glucoside, Cetyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate se, Sorbitan stearate, Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 60, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Xanthan gum, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate, Sodium hydroxide, Disodium edta
Sources
- Opinion on Homosalate - Scientific Committee on Consumer Products
- Dermatological and environmental toxicological impact of the sunscreen ingredient oxybenzone/benzophenone‐3
- Effect of Sunscreen Application on Plasma Concentration of Sunscreen Active Ingredients A Randomized Clinical Trial
- On Photostability of Oxybenzone
- Anti-oxidant, Histopathology and LD50 Evaluation of Ethanol Stem Bark Extract of Enantia chlorantha in Rodents
- Effectiveness of the formulation that containing oleanolic acid 3% on inhibition of 5-α reductase activity on skin of patients with acne
- The effect of ursolic and oleanolic acids on human skin fibroblast cells
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- The natural yeast extract isolated by ethanol precipitation inhibits melanin synthesis by modulating tyrosinase activity and downregulating melanosome transfer
- Evaluation of dermatological effects of cosmetic formulations containing Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract and vitamins
- Contact dermatitis as an adverse reaction to some topically used European herbal medicinal products – part 1: Achillea millefolium–Curcuma longa
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Zinc salts in dermatology
- An overview of zinc and its importance in dermatology-Part II: The association of zinc with some dermatologic disorders
- Zinc, copper and manganese enhanced keratinocyte migration through a functional modulation of keratinocyte integrins
- Evaluation of the effects of topical zinc gluconate in wound healing
- A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimen
- Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity
- Assessment of penetration of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate into biological membranes by molecular dynamics
- Stability evaluation of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in isolation and incorporated in cosmetic formulations using thermal analysis
- A new lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), prevents UV-induced skin pigmentation through its anti-oxidative properties
- New lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), suppresses senile lentigo through controlling of melanocytes-keratinocytes interaction
- Vitamin E in dermatology