PRODUCT REVIEW
Dermalogica Age Smart Multivitamin Power Serum
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What can the product work for?
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Infused with micro-encapsulated Vitamins A, C and E, the age-fighting serum melts into the complexion, encouraging skin recovery whilst defending against ageing and alleviating the appearance of fine lines and age spots.
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
ascorbyl glucoside
1.9% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
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Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Infused with micro-encapsulated Vitamins A, C and E, the age-fighting serum melts into the complexion, encouraging skin recovery whilst defending against ageing and alleviating the appearance of fine lines and age spots.
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
ascorbyl glucoside
1.9% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
retinyl palmitate
0.4% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
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Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Microencapsulated vitamins A, C and E penetrate deep into skin damage, helping to decrease fine lines and age spots while stimulating collagen formation to decrease sun-induced aging in skin.
dimethicone
0.4% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
glycerin
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
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Anti-blemish
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
linoleic acid
0.55% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores
retinyl palmitate
0.4% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Anti-oxidation
ascorbyl glucoside
1.9% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
tocopherol
0.45% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
tocopheryl acetate
0.3% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Potential irritants
citrus grandis peel oil
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin
citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating
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Comodogenic ingredients
User reviews (0)
Similar products & dupes
| Dermalogica - Age Smart Multivitamin Power Serum |  Dr. Denese - Hemp Super Serum |  Pacifica - Wake Up Beautiful Retinoid Serum |  Clinique - Smart Clinical Repair Wrinkle Correcting Serum |  BABOR - Power Serum Ampoules Retinol Serum |  Lancer - Younger: Pure Youth Serum |  Lancer Skincare - Younger: Pure Youth Serum |  BeautyBio - The Nightly Retinol Repair Serum |  Boost Lab - Retinol Night Renewal Serum |  REVOLUTION SKINCARE - Skin Tone Correcting Serum - Granactive Retinoid 2% |  Murad - Retinol Youth Renewal Serum | |
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
HIGH
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HIGH
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HIGH
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
tocopherol
0.45% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-inflammatory,
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
retinyl palmitate
0.4% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Show more
Potential irritants
citrus grandis peel oil
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin
citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
All ingredients
cyclopentasiloxane
7.6% -
9.2%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Mattifying
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
helianthus annuus seed oil
5.1% -
6.2%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
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Ingredient list view
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Glyceryl dibehenate, Tricaprylin, Tribehenin, Ascorbyl glucoside, Boron nitride, Nylon-12, Silica, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, Palmitoyl hexapeptide-14, Citrus grandis peel oil, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Hydrogenated soybean oil, Cera alba, Tocopherol, Retinyl palmitate, Linoleic acid, Beta-sitosterol, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Stearoxymethicone/dimethicone copolymer, Dimethyl isosorbide, Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11, Glyceryl stearate, Tocopheryl acetate, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Lecithin, Butylene glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, Limonene
Sources
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egypt
- Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skin
- Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countries
- The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health
- Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives
- Safety Assessment of Boron Nitride as Used in Cosmetics
- Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studies
- Efficacy of barrier creams in comparison to skin care products in dental laboratory technicians--a controlled trial
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- The Permeability Barrier in Essential Fatty Acid Deficiency: Evidence for a Direct Role for Linoleic Acid in Barrier Function
- Digital image analysis of the effect of topically applied linoleic acid on acne microcomedones.
- Safety Assessment of Phytosterols as Used in Cosmetics
- The Ameliorative Effect of β-sitosterol on DNCB-induced Atopic Dermatitis in Mice
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol