PRODUCT REVIEW
Cheaper alternatives
What can the product work for?
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Ideal for use in the evening when skin is at its most receptive to repair, the advanced anti-ageing serum leaves skin looking younger and more refined with a balance tone and supple texture.
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.35% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
acetyl glucosamine
1.3% -
1.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin
niacinamide
2.3% -
2.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
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Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
A carefully selected balance of 4% Niacinamide and 2% Kojic Acid work to improve skin circulation and stimulate cellular renewal, resulting in a smoother surface layer with diminished melanin production to alleviate the appearance of discoloration as well as wrinkles.
niacinamide
2.3% -
2.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.35% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
acetyl glucosamine
1.3% -
1.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin
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Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Free from hydroquinone.
trehalose
0.25% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin
acetyl glucosamine
1.3% -
1.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin
acetyl hexapeptide-37
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
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Anti-blemish
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.35% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
niacinamide
2.3% -
2.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
retinol
0.55% -
0.85%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
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Exfoliation
retinol
0.55% -
0.85%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
acetyl glucosamine
1.3% -
1.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
An effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.35% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
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Anti-oxidation
kojic acid
1% -
1.2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps to reduce hyperpigmentation and neutralize free radicals. Can be irritating
retinol
0.55% -
0.85%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
carnosine
0.35% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 0
Potential irritants
kojic acid
1% -
1.2%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Evens skin tone
Helps to reduce hyperpigmentation and neutralize free radicals. Can be irritating
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.35% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
No comodogenic ingredients detected
User reviews (0)
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| WIMJ similarity score |
91%
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
HIGH
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HIGH
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HIGH
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
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HIGH
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HIGH
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HIGH
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HIGH
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HIGH
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MEDIUM
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
niacinamide
2.3% -
2.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Moisturizing,
Evens skin tone,
Reduces irritation,
Anti-inflammatory,
Reduces redness,
Antibacterial
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
retinol
0.55% -
0.85%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Mattifying,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation,
Exfoliation
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Show more
Potential irritants
kojic acid
1% -
1.2%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Evens skin tone
Helps to reduce hyperpigmentation and neutralize free radicals. Can be irritating
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.35% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
We couldn't find any comodogenic ingredients in this product
All ingredients
butylene glycol
5.8% -
7.1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
dimethyl isosorbide
4.3% -
5.3%
Irritation risk:
Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin
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Ingredient list view
Water, Butylene glycol, Dimethyl isosorbide, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Peg-7 glyceryl cocoate, Portulaca oleracea extract, Acetyl glucosamine, Kojic acid, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Retinol, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl glycol, Propylene glycol, Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, Hexylene glycol, Unknown, Carnosine, Unknown, Aminoethylphosphinic acid, Pentylene glycol, Fructose, Lactitol, Glycosaminoglycans, Salicylic acid, Tocopheryl acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acetyl hexapeptide-37, Trehalose, Xanthan gum, Methyl gluceth-20, Methylsilanol hydroxyproline aspartate, Hydrolyzed caesalpinia spinosa gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, Sorbitol, Sodium metabisulfite, Lecithin, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Sodium carbomer, Acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, Palmitoyl hydroxypropyltrimonium amylopectin/glycerin crosspolymer, Polysorbate 20, Hydrogenated lecithin, Parfum, Ci 17200
Sources
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Portulaca oleracea (purslane)
- The effect of N-acetyl-glucosamine on stratum corneum desquamation and water content in human skin
- Glucosamine: an ingredient with skin and other benefits
- Genomic expression changes induced by topical N-acetyl glucosamine in skin equivalent cultures in vitro
- Incorporation of D-(^H)glucosamine into normal and psoriatic epidermal glycoconjugates
- Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation by topical N-acetyl glucosamine
- TOPICAL TREATMENT OF MELASMA
- Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation: a review of the epidemiology, clinical features, and treatment options in skin of color.
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)
- A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Propylene Glycol
- Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycol
- Biological activities of the natural imidazole-containing peptidomimetics n-acetylcarnosine, carcinine and l-carnosine in ophthalmic and skin care products
- Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review
- Beta Hydroxy Acids
- A review of toxicity from topical salicylic acid preparations
- Glycolic Acid Peels Versus Salicylic–Mandelic Acid Peels in Active Acne Vulgaris and Post‐Acne Scarring and Hyperpigmentation: A Comparative Study
- Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage
- Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacy
- Final Report On the Safety Assessment of Galactomannans As Used in Cosmetics
- Final report on the safety assessment of sodium sulfite, potassium sulfite, ammonium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, ammonium bisulfite, sodium metabisulfite and potassium metabisulfite